這個標(biāo)題“她專欄 | 都市人”看起來像是一個專欄的名稱或標(biāo)簽。它結(jié)合了三個元素：
1. "她 (Tā):" 指向內(nèi)容創(chuàng)作者或主要關(guān)注點(diǎn)，通常暗示這是一個由女性撰寫、面向女性，或者以女性視角為主的專欄。也可能意味著這個專欄探討的是與女性相關(guān)的都市生活話題。 2. "專欄 (Zhuānlè):" 表明這是一個有固定欄目、持續(xù)更新、主題相對集中的內(nèi)容板塊，常見于報(bào)紙、雜志、網(wǎng)站或社交媒體平臺。 3. "都市人 (Dūshì rén):" 點(diǎn)明了專欄的核心內(nèi)容群體和主題——關(guān)注現(xiàn)代城市生活、節(jié)奏、情感、困境、夢想、觀察等。
"可能的解讀和內(nèi)容方向："
"女性視角下的都市生活：" 如果是女性作者，可能會分享她作為都市女性的個人經(jīng)歷、感悟、對城市現(xiàn)象的觀察、職場挑戰(zhàn)、情感故事、生活方式選擇等。 "關(guān)注所有都市人的故事：" 雖然標(biāo)題有“她”，但內(nèi)容也可能涵蓋所有都市人的共同體驗(yàn)，只是通過女性的筆觸或視角來呈現(xiàn)。 "特定領(lǐng)域的都市話題：" 這個專欄可能專注于都市女性在某個特定領(lǐng)域的經(jīng)歷，例如職場發(fā)展、情感關(guān)系、親子教育、健康生活、興趣愛好等，并將其置于更廣闊的都市背景下。
"總而言之，這個標(biāo)題暗示了一個以

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解讀CUIXU：勇敢的心和自由的靈魂

在2018春夏紐約時裝周前夕，我約到了choker配飾設(shè)計(jì)師CUIXU，在與她的聊天中，我挖掘到了一些她的設(shè)計(jì)靈感和故事，在TOP HER和你們分享一下。

傅：在2018春夏季紐約時裝周上，你與Calvin Luo合作，Calvin Luo擅長制作中性服裝設(shè)計(jì)，你對性別流動轉(zhuǎn)變有何看法？

CUIXU：時尚中的中性是一大趨勢。但我做時尚配飾，這并不太設(shè)計(jì)性別定義。我不會強(qiáng)調(diào)我作品的中性。當(dāng)我的用戶需要他們時，我的產(chǎn)品完全可以使用，不管男性或是女性。上高中的時候，我已經(jīng)很時髦了，有時候女性的服裝并不能完全滿足我對美學(xué)的需求，所以我會穿著小尺碼的男性服裝。只要你快樂，一切都會有機(jī)地發(fā)生。

Picturefrom Calvin Luo NYFW SS18

傅：你會專注在配飾設(shè)計(jì)嗎，還是會擴(kuò)展設(shè)計(jì)范疇？

CUIXU：我很樂意做更多的時尚配飾，特別是鞋子和包包，但現(xiàn)在我想專注于choker的設(shè)計(jì)。人們可以從choker上看到我的才能。因?yàn)樗鼈兏。菀字谱鳌?/p>

傅：在上一季紐約時裝周上，你還曾經(jīng)與中國的另一個品牌蘭玉合作。蘭玉的作品中融入很多中國元素，你是如何合作的呢？

CUIXU：蘭玉來自中國絲綢世家，中國元素是蘭玉品牌DNA的重要組成部分是可以理解的，我很欽佩并認(rèn)同。但是，我的成長經(jīng)歷中沒有明顯的民族特性，我在歐洲學(xué)習(xí)，現(xiàn)在我在美國做CUIXU品牌，CUIXU是美國注冊的國際品牌，只是設(shè)計(jì)師是中國人，屬于一個國家的品牌也屬于世界。確實(shí)，中國特色潛移默化的影響了我。例如，我的新作品Moonscooper的靈感來自一個古老的中國傳說——猴子撈月，故事中，猴子試圖通過在湖上撈月亮的陰影來撈出月亮。Moonscooper中有一個月亮，也是運(yùn)氣的象征，大衛(wèi)之星。我希望我的用戶首先喜歡我的設(shè)計(jì)，然后想要了解背后的文化。他們給我的設(shè)計(jì)投出信任的一票。

傅：這次收到2018春夏季紐約時裝周議程是什么？

CUIXU：本次時裝周，我們?nèi)蕴幱谛庐a(chǎn)品的測試階段。許多時裝界權(quán)威人士對我們的新款手袋表現(xiàn)出極大興趣。我們將繼續(xù)完成關(guān)于新產(chǎn)品的短片廣告，這是關(guān)于Moonscooper的童話故事。我為視頻寫了腳本。

傅：誰才是CUIXU品牌理想中的用戶？

CUIXU：用戶是男孩、女孩、年輕人或者老年人，這并不重要。我希望是一位桀驁不羈的人，突破社會風(fēng)俗和限制。她可以在平凡的事物中找到美。

我曾經(jīng)喜歡一款名為Life Quote的網(wǎng)絡(luò)游戲，在游戲中，我和我的朋友收集建材和建造房屋。我的朋友喜歡建造大房子，我喜歡在無限的藍(lán)色海洋中駕駛一艘小船20分鐘。最終，我在荒涼的島上找到了一座寺廟。我非常興奮！我的朋友說，你終于找到了這座寺廟，那又怎樣？對我來說，這才是這個游戲之于我的意義。

傅：你覺得最近的#metoo運(yùn)動或是婦女游行活動怎么樣？

CUIXU：我很支持。作為一名女性設(shè)計(jì)師，我很高興地看到女性在家和在工作中的地位通過這些運(yùn)動而提高。但我不是女權(quán)主義者。我希望性別不會限制我們參與社會角色。雖然我現(xiàn)在正在創(chuàng)業(yè)，但我不會認(rèn)為我像一個男人一樣戰(zhàn)斗。

傅：你為什么選擇從紐約出發(fā)？

CUIXU：我給你講兩個小故事吧。

第一個故事，我剛到意大利留學(xué)的時候發(fā)生的。我有一個室友，他人很好。當(dāng)我問他你從哪里來？他抬起頭，充滿了自豪感地說，我是紐約人。那個畫面在我腦海里停留了很長時間。我想知道，是哪座城市，讓我的朋友談到時如此自信？我可以看到從他的身體里發(fā)出的光。我把這個問題暫時擱置了一段時間。

第二個故事，在上海工作了兩年后，我想擁有自己的品牌。偶然間我看到一部紀(jì)錄片，采訪了紐約街頭的人們。一個場景是在一家咖啡館里轉(zhuǎn)向了一位老人。工作人員問他他對紐約有什么看法。他說，在紐約你可以在大街上找機(jī)會。哪怕他坐在咖啡館里45分鐘，也會有人跟他談?wù)劊o他機(jī)會。

我是一個相信運(yùn)氣和機(jī)會的人，這就是我在這里的原因。

有趣的是，我自己選擇了這條路線，我并不是受到親戚朋友的影響，而是來自兩個陌生人的影響：我在意大利的室友和那個紐約街頭的老人。也許這就是命運(yùn)。

傅：你的愛好是什么？你從哪里獲得靈感？

CUIXU：首先，我的工作是我最大的興趣和激情。

其次，我喜歡大自然，我喜歡進(jìn)入荒野。

第三，我喜歡釣魚，我的爺爺很喜歡釣魚，小時候他帶我到處玩。漸漸地，我也養(yǎng)成了這種愛好。我也喜歡打籃球，高中時我就報(bào)名參加了籃球校隊(duì)。

至于靈感，它們來自生活。如果我跟你聊天，我會捕捉一些東西，我可能會發(fā)現(xiàn)一些萬花筒般的想象。我隨身攜帶一個筆記本，捕捉到的靈感和想法會記錄下來。想法眨眼即逝，所以把它們寫下來非常重要。我每天晚上睡覺前都會這樣做。

我最喜歡的設(shè)計(jì)師是Martin Margiela，

傅：你自己近一年到三年的計(jì)劃是什么？

CUIXU：近一年來，我想使我的設(shè)計(jì)多樣化，使我們的產(chǎn)品多樣化。我還希望見到行業(yè)內(nèi)或行業(yè)外與更多的朋友，積累更多資源。我歡迎跨行業(yè)合作。我不知道會發(fā)生什么，但我絕對是開放的。（傅：CUIXU是一位多才多藝的設(shè)計(jì)師，她曾在電影“ix’s”的Moonscooper上制作迷你電影）。3年里，我想在行業(yè)中更加成熟，并因我的設(shè)計(jì)而聞名。我想平衡商業(yè)元素和創(chuàng)造力。我不希望我的設(shè)計(jì)過于商業(yè)化，我會保持我品牌的精神。

Cuixu Moonscooperhandbag

傅：如果你不做設(shè)計(jì)師，你會做什么？

CUIXU：設(shè)計(jì)師也許是我最好的職業(yè)。我做了一些個性測試，設(shè)計(jì)是我最好的搭配。如果我不是設(shè)計(jì)師，我會成為地質(zhì)學(xué)家。我真的很佩服那些《國家地理雜志》的專業(yè)人士。在我的骨子里，我是一個愛冒險的人。

英文原版

I caught up with the choker designer Cui Xu on her inspirations on thenew design before #NYFW2018. I discovered many of her personal lessons only toshare with you.

Zhu: Who is the ideal Cuixu customer?

Cui Xu: It does not matterif the customer is a girl, a boy, young or old. I hope the customer is adevil-may-care person, who breaks through the social customs and constraints. Heor she can find beauty in ordinary things. I used to love this video gamecalled Life Quote (?), where my friend and I collected items and build houses.My friend loved building big houses, but I just drove a little boat in the limitlessblue ocean for 20 minutes. Eventually, I found a temple in a desolate island. Iwas more than exhilarated! My friend was like, now you found this temple, sowhat? But I mean, for me, this is the whole point of the game.

Zhu: You haveco-operated with Calvin Luo, who excels at creating unisex garments, in NYFW SpringSeason 2018. What is your take on gender fluidity?

Cui Xu: Gender neutralisationin fashion is a big trend. But I do fashion accessories, which are not definedby genders by nature. I won’t accentuate the neutralisation of my pieces. Myproducts are fully accessible when my customers want them. When I was in highschool, I was already quite fashionable. Sometimes female garments could notsatisfy my needs for aesthetics, so I just hopped on the small size of maleclothes. As long you are happy, everything happens organically.

Zhu: You have alsoco-operated with another Chinese brand, Lanyu,in the last NYFW season. Lanyu has intentionally incorporated Chinese elementsinto their work. How about you?

Cui Xu: Lanyu comes fromgenerations of Chinese silk family. It is understandable that Chinese elements forma big part of Lanyu’s DNA. I admire it and agree with it. However, I grew up withless salient national identity. I studied in Europe; now I am doing Cuixu inthe US. Cuixu is a US-registered international brand, only that the designer isChinese. What belongs to a nation also belongs to the world. For sure Chinese identityhas subtly influenced me. For example, the new piece Moonscooper was inspiredby an old Chinese tale. In the tale, someone tried to steal the moon by scoopingthe shadow of the moon on a lake. I want my customers to simply enjoy my designfirst, then want to know about the culture behind. They give my design theconfidence vote.

Zhu: Why did you chooseto start from New York?

Cui Xu: When I was stillstudying in Italy. I had a roommate, who is a very friendly guy. But when Iasked him, where are you from? He raised his head, filled with prides, said, Iam a New Yorker. That impression stuck in my head for a long time. I waswondering, what is the place that made my friend so full of confidence? Ipigeonholed this question for a while. After working in Shanghai for 2 years, Iwanted my own brand. I saw a documentary that interviewed people on the streetof New York. One scene swung to an old man in a café. The staff asked him whatdid he think of New York. He said, in New York you can pick up opportunities onthe street. Even as he sat in a café for 45 minutes, someone would come up talkto him and give him chances. I am a big believer in luck and opportunities.That is why I am here.

Zhu: What are your hobbies?Where you get your inspirations from?

Cui Xu: First, my work ismy top hobby and my passion. Second, I enjoy Nature. I love going into the wildness.Third, I love fishing. My grandpa loves fishing and he takes me around when Iwas little. Gradually I got this habit with me. I also like playing basketball;I have signed up the basketball school team in high school. As forinspirations, they come from life. Say if I talk with you, I capture something,I may ave a kaleidoscope of imaginations from there. I carry a notebook with meand capture those thoughts. Geniuses can be easily lost in the glimpse of eye,so it is very important to write them down. I do this ritually every nightbefore sleep. And my favourite designer is Martin Margiela.

Zhu: What will do if youwere not a designer?

Cui Xu: Well designer is probablythe best occupation for me. If I were not a designer, I would have been a geologist.I really admire those Nat Geo professionals. Inside my bone, I am adventurous.

Zhu: Where did you getinspirations for your new bag?

Cui Xu: For example, theMoonscooper bag takes on the old tale of China with Star of David. The bagtakes on the poetic parts onto a practical bag. To open the bag, you have toglide the handle to open the bag, like extending your arm to scoop the moon. Inaddition, it adds interactions with customers. Interaction enlivens theproducts beyond functionality.

Zhu: What’s the rest onthe agenda for this incoming NYFW FS 18?

Cui Xu: For thisseason, we are still in the final testing phase of our new products. Manyinfluencers have showed great interests for our new bags. We will continue to finishthe short commercials on the new product, a fairy story about Moonscooper. I screenwrote for the video.

Abridged version forpress. You can see the full version of our interview on URBANITEzhuoruifu.com

作者：傅卓蕊

編譯：kiki

編輯：Meng

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